Tokyo Zen Quest
We began our Japan trip by journeying to Tokyo, checking into the Mustard Hotel. I had planned to embrace Japan’s culture by swapping my morning coffee for green tea, but Japan had changed. Coffee culture here was thriving, and our first morning greeted us with the rich aroma of coffee, as good as anything back home in the Berkshires.
Our neighborhood, Setagaya-Kitazawa, had a charming Brooklyn-like vibe, reminiscent of Greenpoint. Converted warehouses now housed cozy cafes and quirky shops. At one sidewalk cafe, I met a sweet Scottish woman who had lived in Japan for 20 years. She told me this area, once an old railroad, had been revitalized into a creative hub.
After coffee, we wandered through vintage stores, where accessibility was sometimes a challenge. My family helped me navigate steps, lifting me when needed. Encouragingly, I noticed more ramps being added, making these spaces increasingly accessible. It was clear this vintage haven would soon be open to everyone.
We passed vibrant murals featuring samurai-inspired art, snapping photos along the way. At Hakko Department, a fermentation market, we tasted dashi made with fish flakes and mushrooms. From Universal Bakers 2, a vegan café, we savored soy bean paste donuts. These oily delights, with their jelly-donut texture, tasted like mochi — a unique and satisfying treat.
That evening, we dined at an omakase sushi spot. In a private room, we let the smooth sweetness of sake complement exquisite sushi crafted by a skilled chef and his kind apprentice. Their warm hospitality and smiles made the experience even more memorable.
The next day, we explored Takeshita Street, home to "yen shops," Japan’s version of dollar stores. These shops offered everything imaginable — from Hello Kitty toys to ramen bowls and beauty products. Outside, a sweet potato vendor reminded me of roasted nut stalls in Manhattan.
The Tokyo subway was impressively accessible, with numerous elevators that put NYC’s transit system to shame. However, the platform gaps could still use some improvement. At Tsukiji Market, we strolled past vibrant stalls bursting with energy. The market had a carnival-like atmosphere, with tourists snacking on sweet potato chips and enjoying Michelin-quality fatty tuna instead of the usual American corn dogs.
As I prepare to take the bullet train to Kyoto, an ancient city of shrines and traditions, I reflect on the profound respect and calmness I’ve encountered in Japan. There’s a zen quality here that encourages you to slow down, to simply be.
John Coltrane once said, “Invest yourself in everything you do. There’s fun in being serious.” That quote resonates deeply in Japan. The streets are quiet and meditative, public spaces exude respect, and even in lively dining experiences, privacy and serenity are honored. This delicate balance of energy and peace is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced, leaving me both humbled and inspired.
